Skincare - Step 5 Moisturiser

So far we've cleansed and toned and exfoliated and applied serum. The final skincare step is moisturiser.

A good analogy for moisturiser is that it's the top coat. It's the layer that seals everything in.

For daytime it is essential that your moisturiser contains an SPF, at least 30+. Sometimes SPF can be incompatible with makeup foundations and primers. That can be because the formulas don't work together i.e. water-based mixed with silicone-based products. That incompatibility often results in balling of the sunscreen. Sometimes it takes a bit of swapping and changing until you find a product combination that works perfectly.

If I've said it once, I've said it a million times, sunscreen is the long-term skin game-changer. Not only are you protecting yourself from UVA and UVB rays which can lead to skin cancer but you are also protecting your skin from the number 1 skin-ager - the sun. If possible just keep your face completely out of the sun but if that's not possible you absolutely MUST wear sunscreen. Rant over!!

For nighttime it is best to choose a moisturiser that is a little bit richer, even if you have oily skin like me.

For daytime I wear Paula's Choice Resist Youth Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid SPF 15 ($38.01 for 60ml). This is a moisturiser and SPF in one. This product is sold in the US as SPF 30 but is relabelled SPF 15 in Australia. It is currently undergoing clearance with TGA in Australia and is limited to SPF 15 until clearance is received. It is exactly the same formula as what is sold in the US. Given it is marketed as SPF 15 I am as usual avoiding direct sunlight on my skin at all costs.

At night I wear either Paula's Choice Hydralight Moisture-Infusing Lotion - soon to be discontinued ($37 for 60ml) or Paula's Choice Anti-Aging Clear Skin Hydrator ($42 for 50ml).

That brings my skincare routine 5-step series to an end. I hope you found these posts helpful.

Just a reminder that you can view my posts if you use the Bloglovin' app. Just search stylebylisap.

Until next time xx

Skincare - Step 4 Serum

So far I have written three posts in this series, the first about cleansing, the second about toning and the third about exfoliating.

In this post I will talk about using serums and targeted treatments.

The cleansing, toning and exfoliating steps prepare the skin perfectly for the serum step. Serums are skincare products with high concentrations of certain active ingredients. Serums are formulated to penetrate deeply into the skin to deliver key ingredients.

They are often more expensive than other products in the routine as the ingredients are concentrated.

Unfortunately, like nutrition, there is not a single skincare ingredient that will give your skin everything that it needs. Like nutrition, it's a good idea for your skin to have a variety of quality ingredients.

A well-formulated serum with antioxidants improves the skin in many ways, from reducing redness to stimulating healthy collagen production for firmer skin and fewer wrinkles.

I apply a serum morning and night. I have a serum that I prefer to use in the morning with a booster and a serum I prefer to use at night.

Here are some of the ingredients I love to feed to my skin.

Hyaluronic acid

This acid is found in abundance in young skin but disappears with age. It functions as a superior skin-identical ingredient. It has cell-communicating abilities and can boost skin's moisture content, reducing inflammation and helping prevent moisture loss. Moisture loss leads to dehydrated skin which looks grey and lacks lustre. Hyaluronic acid locks in moisture and makes the skin look more radiant.

Retinol

Retinol is another name for Vitamin A. It is a cell-communicating ingredient. Retinol improves skin-cell health and that means an improvement in the condition of sun-damaged and breakout-prone skin. Retinol can also improve pore size. Retinol works differently than the exfoliating acids. It works from the deeper layers up, helping skin cells make healthier, younger cells and enhancing the production and number of new skin cells. Some people may experience flaking when using retinol and it is important to find a concentration that works for you. For me 0.1% is fine. Regular use of retinol products can make you more prone to sunburn, so daily use of a sunscreen is essential.

Niacinamide

Also known as Vitamin B3 and nicotinic acid it is a potent cell-communicating ingredient that offers many benefits for aging skin. It can improve skin's elasticity, enhance its barrier function, help erase discolourations and revive skin's healthy tone and texture.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C is another anti-aging hero. This ingredient is great for photo-damage or sun spots. I have a mole on my neck that Vitamin C has faded beautifully. Being an antioxidant it is vulnerable to deterioration in the presence of air and light. It should be purchased in an opaque or light-protected packaging that reduces or eliminates air exposure. Vitamin C protects skin cells and their support structure, improves the appearance of sun-damaged skin, strengthens the skin's barrier response, reduces inflammation, promotes collagen production, lessens hyper-pigmentation and boosts sunscreen actives. It really is a powerhouse skincare ingredient.

What I use and when

Each morning I use Paula's Choice Resist Ultra-Light Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum ($52 for 30ml) which contains Hyaluronic Acid and either add 3-4 drops of Paula's Choice Resist C15 Super Booster (Vitamin C) ($62 for 20ml) or 3-4 drops of Paula's Choice Resist 10% Niacinamide Booster ($67 for 20ml).

Each evening I use Paula's Choice Resist Intensive Wrinkle-Repair Retinol Serum ($59 for 30ml). It contains 0.1% retinol, a moderate dose, and currently stands as my single favourite skin care product but a mile. The texture of this product is sublime. It does have a slight odour that reminds me of dagwood dog batter (I hope that doesn't put you off).

I'm not a big fan of eye creams. If you are using well formulated products, just include your eye area. Don't forget to take the products down the neck and onto the chest.

Until next time xx

Skincare - Step 3 Exfoliating

So far I have written two posts in this series, the first about cleansing and the second about toning.

In this post I talk about Step 3 - Exfoliating.

For me this is the step that has made the most dramatic change to my skin. Exfoliating fights the signs of aging, keeping the skin smooth, flake free and refreshed. It improves hydration (skin's water retention), reduces wrinkles, stimulates collagen production and firms skin. It can also reduce discolouration from sun damage and the visible marks left after a pimple is gone. Exfoliating preps the skin for Step 4 - Serums.

I favour using acids to exfoliate the skin rather than the physical scrub variety. They feel a bit too rough for me. I'm also not a fan of the Clarisonic system because I found it was too rough for me, even when using the sensitive brush. Surprisingly since I've stopped using it my skin has improved.

There are two types of acids, AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) and BHAs (beta-hydroxy acids).

AHAs are great for dryer skins and BHAs are great for oilier ones.

Because my skin is oily, I favour BHAs but I also include AHAs occasionally.

The types of acids that fall into AHAs are:

• Glycolic
• Lactic
• Malic

AHAs work best for those whose chief concerns are sun damage and dry skin, They work to exfoliate primarily the top layers of the skin. The don't cut through oil and are less compatible for those with oily/combination skins.

The acid that falls into the BHA category is salicylic. BHAs work best for oily, acne-prone skin and for treating blackheads, enlarged pores and white bumps. BHAs penetrate the oil that's clogging your pores, and normalises the lining of the pore. BHAs also have an anti-inflammatory and antibacterial action - great for acne or sensitive, reddened skin.

I have lots of different acid products and I like to mix them up. They all have one thing in common, keeping my skin smooth and soft.

Here's what I have and how I use them. They are listed in order of how often I use them.

My most used product is the Paula's Choice Resist Daily Pore-Refining Treatment with 2% BHA. I add a few drops to a cotton pad and apply to my face, neck and chest, morning and night. This is by far my favourite acid product and it is fragrance free. Paula's Choice is available from the Paula's Choice Australia website.

Next is Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 8% AHA Gel Exfoliant. I use this at night once or twice a week. It is in a gel texture and I apply it to my face, neck and chest.

I use a concentrated BHA once a week at night - Paula's Choice Resist Weekly Retexturizing Foaming Treatment 4% BHA.

The following products are items I am trying to use up.

I love the Alpha-H Liquid Gold. It is a glycolic acid solution. This is best applied once a week after a double cleanse and it is recommended not to put a serum or moisturiser over it, just apply it like that. The following morning my skin is always looking especially refreshed and my pores are visibly smaller. Makeup applies beautifully over this surface. This a great product for dryer skin types but for me it works well. Alpha-H is available from Sephora Australia.

An oldy but a goodie, Clarins Gentle Exfoliator Brightening Toner contains glycolic, salicylic and tartaric acid. It does have a slight fragrance which I'm not a fan of but given the price of Clarins products, I'm using it to the bottom of the bottle.

Caroline Hirons, UK skincare blogger and YouTuber, is a massive fan of Biologique Recherche. Lotion P50V. It contains poly-hydroxy acid, lactic, malic and phytic acids. The V type is especially for aged skin. This product is difficult to source in Australia (I had it shipped to me from a Sydney spa). It stings like hell, makes me go quite red and has a strong vinegar odour. Sounds horrible doesn't it? It's not for the faint-hearted but probably something I bring out once or twice a month. It's powerful stuff.

If there was a range of products that are game changes, these are it. I think that's why people think I look younger than my age. It's because my skin is so smooth and clear of flakes. Exfoliating allow the fresh skin to shine through.

One thing to note is that when you are regularly exfoliating, it is vital that you are applying sunscreen daily and that really goes without saying if you want the condition of your skin to be at its very best. Sunscreen is the key.

Let me know how you go.

Until next time xx

Skincare - Step 2 Toning

My last post was all about cleansing. In this post I will talk about Step 2 - Toning.

Until a few years ago toning was a step that thought was unnecessary. But what I now know is that it's a quick and easy step in my routine and makes quite a difference.

Toning is an important step after cleansing. It's good for restoring the skin's pH level and getting the skin ready for the following skincare steps.

After cleansing, skin needs a range of ingredients to restore and repair its surface. I like a toner to contain antioxidants, cell-communicating and skin-repair ingredients.

The right toner can give your skin just what it needs as well as providing a bit of extra cleansing just in case you missed some areas.

My skin is normal to oily so I use a toner that is specially formulated for my skin type. It is in a water-like consistency and I apply it on a cotton pad (just three drops) and swipe over all of my face, neck and chest.

I am currently using Paula's Choice Hydralight Healthy Skin Refereshing Toner.

It has been sadly discontinued but I will switch to the Paula's Choice Resist Weightless Advanced Repairing Toner when I've finished it. It's available from the Paula's Choice Australian website for $32.

It's fragrance free and very light in texture. Fragrance can be quite irritating for skin and for me it can exacerbate oil and shine.

Be mindful of course to choose a toner that suits your skin type. Again the products I use suit normal to oily to combination skin.

Toners for oily skins shouldn't contain ingredients that are irritating and likely to make blemishes worse. Toners for dry or sensitive skins need a formula which is soothing and comfortable.

I tone twice a day, morning and night, straight after cleansing and before exfoliating.

Give toner a try and let me know what you think.

Until next time xx